The authors assess the challenges and best practices of the global denim and jeans industry to reduce the use of chemicals. Reference is made to the “Planetary Boundaries” defined by Rockström and Steffen, to point out the urgency of the problem. First, a literature overview is presented covering the question in which phases of the production of a pair of jeans in general, the use of chemicals constitutes a risk for people and the environment. Although there are ample studies discussing the dangers of chemical pollution and waste in this industry, and also studies on new technological solutions, it became apparent that there are gaps regarding (i) mapping applicable laws and (ii) assessing managerial practices aimed at complying with these laws and implementing best practices (eg international self-regulatory standards).
The main research question is therefore: What can be done by the denim and jeans sector to prevent the negative impacts on people and the environment caused by utilizing chemicals? First, we wish to find out which measures are imposed by law on denim and jeans companies in regard of using and discharging chemicals. Secondly, we aim to assess which measures companies take to comply with those laws, which measures go beyond compliance with the national legal requirements, and in the latter case, whether such measures align with international self-regulatory norms.
In order to gain a deeper insight in the managerial challenges and successes in practice, we choose to perform a qualitative inductive case study. We selected a jeans brand that strives to implement high CSR standards. We developed the product life cycle of one product, a pair of jeans, fabricated by this brand. We identified the suppliers involved, examined the laws that apply to the use of chemicals in their processes (ie Vietnam, Turkey and the Netherlands), and conducted semi-structured interviews with company managers and employees, and other stakeholders, to detect the best practices aimed at compliance with those laws and reducing the use and discharge of chemicals. Most interviews were live, some by skype. We also visited factories, and examined written materials like manuals, etc. All interviews were transcribed.
In order to produce a comparable analysis of the different quantity and quality of the national legislation, the implementation activities and the enforcement thereof, we collaborated closely with academics and practitioners in law in each of the countries involved in the product life cycle.
The findings revealed that the brand, but certainly also its suppliers, designed their processes to go beyond compliance with laws, thereby implementing new and creative solutions, with the ultimate goal to generate zero chemical waste. We exposed the findings per country, ie the solutions applied by the product life cycle partners in Turkey, Vietnam and the Netherlands. Such best practices demonstrate that companies can play an important role in preventing local-ecosystems from becoming dysfunctional due to chemical pollution. In the conclusions, general findings are presented, the limitations of the research are discussed, and the opportunities for further study are divulged.
Key words: Product Life Cycle Jeans Chemical Pollution Laws Best Practices
9d. Law and sustainability
