The textile sector - third economic sector in Italy - is the center of strong attention with regard to sustainability of the phases that make up its manufacturing and supply chains (pre-consumer, use, post-consumer). During the pre-consumer phase, 37.4% of non-hazardous manufacturing wastes come from textiles, clothing and the tanning industry (Source: ISPRA, 2013);
According to the report Pulse of the fashion industry (Source: Boston Consulting Group 2017) by 2030 wastes production in the sector will increase up to 63%, and, along with wastes the CO2 emissions will also increase. Every year, tons of wastes end up in landfills. Wastes that could be re-introduced into a new production cycle, with a perspective of circular economy and industrial symbiosis.
However, SMEs (Small and Medium Enterprises) in the textile sector often do not have facilities for the selection, cataloguing and transformation into secondary raw materials wastes released during the manufacturing phases. Furthermore, they do not have specific resources to be dedicated for Research and Development (R&D) activities. Despite the mentioned obstacles recently collaboration projects among universities, research centers and enterprises are in progress thanks to financial opportunities and focused policies.
In this context was set up and implemented a project titled: Ediltex - Innovation for the reuse in textile companies - a research and training project financed by Fondimpresa. The project involves the Technology research team of DAD (Department of Architecture and Design, Politecnico di Torino), E-work, the Grow up consortium and several companies in the textile sector located in Tuscany and Lombardy.
The aim of Ediltex is to provide proper skills to the enterprises in order to support the technological innovation and the implementation of a recycling supply-chain. The project is also aimed at testing the opportunity to use such wastes as secondary raw materials for manufacturing environmentally friendly products to be used in building and eco-design sector.
The methodology adopted was a blended model. It includes a series of activities (training meetings, project working, study tours, meetings and brain storming) split up into 7 actions focused on these topics:
1. From linear economy to circular economy; 2. Waste management legislation; 3. Environmental certification methods and instruments; 4. Re-use and recycling of textile wastes in building and design sector; 5. Feasibility studies and operational models; 6. Financing opportunities; 7. Analysis and development of potential markets.
The ongoing project is an open innovation model that allows companies to develop the know-how and the new skills. The paper deal with the activities carried out: the study of the manufacturing chains; the input-output analysis of textile wastes; the environmental assessment (based on a life cycle approach) of reusing and recycling processes.
The results involve a SWOT analysis (Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, Threats) of three different scenarios for reuse and recycling of textile wastes as new resources for the building sector.
5g. Special Track - Industrial symbiosis, networking and cooperation as part of industrial
