Purpose and Methodology and Originality/Value
Labour standards in garment supply chains are notoriously poor. Forced overtime, poverty wages and unsafe working conditions are the norm. A variety of regulatory initiatives attempt to stop the exploitation of garment workers but not much is known about which regulations help to stop labour rights abuses. In an effort to contribute to closing that gap this conceptual paper examines and combines the literatures on CSR and industrial relations on which forms of regulation have most potential to improve working conditions in global supply chains.
Findings, and Practical and Social implications
The literature overwhelmingly indicates that the dominant CSR regulatory model, based on corporate codes of conduct and social audits, has failed to improve working conditions in garment supply chains. The paper makes practical recommendations for brands and retailers in the garment sector, including developing a “unity of purpose” around the aim of sourcing from ethical workplaces. At the same time, trade unions have an important role to play in the regulation of garment supply chains. The paper shows how trade unions have identified opportunities to increase their power resources, particularly through framing brands and retailers as important industrial relations actors and engaging in international solidarity.
Research Limitations/Implications
The research is limited by its reliance on existing literature. In particular, the long-term outcomes of the selected studies are unknown. The paper would be strengthened by the addition of field research to test the findings.
Keywords
Corporate social responsibility; garment supply chains; workers’ rights; industrial relations.